Speed bag bladder
First ,I’m using an Everlast 24″ platform (the crappy particle board one) I would like to use a thicker piece of wood to make it more secure. I noticed that you recomend table tops. Did you change the mounting screws? (the screws that fasten the platform to the arms) Because they don’t look like they could handle a very thick piece of wood in addition to the particle board platform.
Well that’s it for my questions tonight.
I have a question regarding Speed Bag Bl mulberry purse adder changing. I train Shooto (MMA) in Tokyo and recently got back into doing Speedbag training again. I was using an Everlast 4200 but one of our fighters over inflated it and it’s out of commision. So I replaced it with a Bodymaker Speedbag and I really prefer the Everlast one. So I will order bladders and replace the popped one.
In the meantime I removed the old bladder and tried to do a patch job. Didn’t work out but it was really a challenge to slip the nozzle back through the hole in the bottom on the bag.
Is there some secret to this? It seems really hard.
Any tips would be appreciated.
And thanks for your time. It’s great that guys like you are offering help and advice.
You are describing the very reason I always buy 2 or 3 bags at a time. the most irritating thing about speed bags is messing with the bladder. If the hole is in the SEAM of the bladder, forget it. As best I remember, ( haven’t done this in a while.) I would attach the needle to the pump, and stick it through the bag hole. Then I would put the bladder into the bag and stick the needle into the bag, and pump it up about 25 40%. ( I found it was easier to seat the bladder when it was somewhat blown up.) then I would push the bladder down and let the inserted needle help guide the nozzle to the hole. Then I would finish blowing it up pretty full and let the pressure of the air inside put pressure on the bladder to help seat the valve and let the glue dry. Otherwise, you can’t keep enough pressure on the bladder to keep the nozzle poked out while the glue dries.
I remember trying the is in the early days by holding the air nozzle with a pair of needle nose pliers to pull it tight as the glue dried. But air does it a lot easier.
Hope that helps you out. I bought some that were an inch or so longer to go through the extra wood. (In the picture on mulberry purse my site that is actually plywood, not a table top. Table tops are good for creating a rebound board from scratch, but not as easy as plywood to “add on” to another board.)
answer 1B: I drilled out the holes a little wider in the board, widening the end where the square bolt head fits in. It doesn’t have to be perfect if it is not being counter sunk to a specific depth.
Second, I noticed on your website that you seem to leave the black particle board side facing down after you have modified the platform (adding the table top) Is it possible or better to place the table top surface facing down (of course after sanding it smooth and varnishing it)
Answer 2: I think I would work either way, but I left the black particle board down, since that was the original circular board, and the plywood on top wasn’t cut to shape. It was actually just roughed out to go on top and add weight. I also used the black board f mulberry purse or the underneath shots in my teaching video. It gave a nice contrast against the bag. I have other lighter rebound boards that did not look as good. But for non video training, the color wouldn’t matter.
Answer 3: Actually that is a great question. I DO use a level whenever possible. Without a level, it can be difficult to get it close to straight, so I normally use one, resting on top. AFter it is tightened down, you can put the level up against the under surface to make sure it is level. Newer, more expensive units have both side of the vertical mounts moving together a mulberry purse nd it is easier to get them level, but I DO suggest using a level if you know how and one is available. I think it makes a more reliable workout when the board is level.